However, it is an extensive rework of the knife, basically a complete reshaping to meet Bill's idea of how a bowie should be shaped, and all on the premise the excellent steel already there is worth the effort, being defunkt Sharon Steel 0170-6 marketed as other names including Carbon V . By rework, and talking a regrind to drop the point in line with hand for a thrust for knife fighting. It was in SOF Magazine late 80s and I believe reprinted in his battle blades book. It was strictly to make it into a better fighter, not a better knife in general.

Frankly, I consider the flat to convex knife as supplied by Western to be about the most under-rated knife on the planet, as it sits. A shearing, chopping delight, and needs no improvement on a now collectible, never-again knife.

However, a synopsis listed from another board is as follows...

"That being the sharpening of the false edge of the swedge and lowering the tip somewhat, ala Bill Bagwell's suggestions which are roughly as follows: The Guard, Cut the ends of the guard off at the point where top and bottom bend to make the “S” curve. Finish the ends off by filing, sanding, polishing. The Blade, Starting about 3/8 of an inch forward of the guard, the blade should be narrowed in progressive taper until it’s 1 7/8 inches wide at the point where the clip starts across the widest part of the cutting edge. You can use a file or a grinder but be careful not to overheat the blade. The Point, The point is carried to high and needs to be dropped. Using a File or bench grinder lower the point ½ inch. Do not overheat the blade if you use a grinder. The unaltered blade measured ~9.5 inches from the front of the guard to the point. The modified version should be ~9 inches long. The clip, The original W49 clip point is not sharp so using a file rough the profile and finish with you favorite sharpener. The Handle, Use a file to thin and round the sides and ridges of the handle until they feel comfortable to you. Spend some time here there is plenty of material to work with. Do not remove the handle hook. He suggests performing the modifications in the above order."

Be very careful if and when you start re-profiling your knife, too much heat generated while grinding/filing etc will cause the blade to loose it's temper, quickly. Believe me steel heats way faster than you think, I can show you the burn marks on my fingers : ( Older steels, generally, took lower heat temps to harden, so it will not take a high temp to ruin the blade.

Now having said that here is how to attack the job.......keep a coffee can or similar sized container of water next to you and dip the blade into it to keep the temp down on the blade. Using a file, it would take more than a few strokes to get it hot but with a power tool like a angle or 1x30 belt grinder will only take a few seconds to get the blade too hot. Use a sharp file, belt or disc with light pressure and dip the blade a lot into the water. The molecules in the steel can start to change at temps as low 400-450 degrees, you want them to keep still, cool, not warming up to cause them to move around and get excited which will lead to the temper being ruined.

I am far from being a expert but know enough to get myself into trouble If you have any questions just ask and I will help if I can.

Gunner

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41 Mags rule, Baers rock!

https://www.amazon.com/Bowies-Knives-Best-Battle-Blades/dp/1581601077#reader_1581601077

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Of the Troops & For the Troops