SHOOTERS MUST HAVE HAD BETTER EYES

Just enough to use but rugged and snag free enough to stand up to the rigors of combat.
many of us mananged to qualify expert with those "Lousy sights"

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Of the Troops & For the Troops

I have about 25 lbs cast and lubed, but I use my airsoft to practice point shooting. The 1911 seems to be a good platform to do that easily and "accurately out to 10-15 if the airsoft is any indicator.

I'm wanting to get a good accurate load so I can shoot 50 now and 90s when the trees lose their leaves.

I have a HIGH dollar detector so if I will fill it with juice I can start fining the missing brass. 7.7 AA #5 made a fairly small little pile that I found most of them in, 8.6 and I have found one!

I have to admit . . . Sadly though

It seems to point shoot better than any of my wheel guns. And Wheel Guns are whats happening!

I have bobbed and dehorned one Series 70 hammer, and I've dehorned several revolver triggers (mostly S&W, plus one Charter Bulldog), and I think you would find stoning a very slow process.

In the past, I have used Swiss-pattern files, but I wore those out, so most recently I tried diamond-type needle files. IMO, those are only a so-so replacement for the real thing.

If you don't have a full set, a half-round file, plus a full-round file should be enough to get the job done.

Here is the 'bob- & dehorn-job' I did on my Behlert Series 70 hammer using only hand tools.

The original shop work included narrowing the sides of the hammer to prevent it 'dragging' on the slide, but they left the edges pretty sharp, and there was a minor machining flaw near the end of the spur on one side. My meager efforts, while somewhat crude, rectified both matters.

You might also find emery cloth useful in 220- and 320-grit for cutting, and 400- and 600-grit for finishing.

Lastly, you can use good old 'Scotchbrite' to restore the finish on the sides of your hammer (I mainly use Norton-brand, in both green/coarse and gray/fine, with the latter being just about right).

HTH

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