Given a little more info, I could probably find the answer

by FOG, Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 18:37 (4126 days ago) @ cable
edited by FOG, Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 19:08

'Bigger than 3/8' and 'it might work if shimmed' suggests something less than 1/2" (12.7 mm), but it's not clear by how much.

Meantime, here are a few notes that might be of some help.


1. Measuring The Dovetail

This should not be too difficult, given the right tool.

Assuming the sight is completely gone and the dovetail is 'empty', it should actually be easy using a Pocket Optical Comparator, which is basically a small magnifying glass (think 'loupe') with a reticle having one or more scales embossed upon it.

These can be found at places like Amazon or Edmund Optics for under $100.

I'm pretty sure if you placed the comparator against the side of the empty dovetail, then looked through the backlit dovetail using the loupe, you could measure the dovetail width to at least ±0.1 mm, possibly even more accurately.

If you don't want to spend the money, I have a comparator you could borrow, but it only goes up to 10 mm, and the minimum increments are 0.2 mm. Still, it might work. If you're interested in trying it, let me know. You would pay shipping both ways, of course, preferably Priority Mail ($5.80 x 2 = $11.60; you would not have to insure it).

My comparator also has an inch scale: Range 0.0 - 0.5 inches; Major Divisions = 0.1 inches; Minor Divisions = 'Teeny Tiny'. Of course, you would have to convert to metric, for which I recommend the free program Convert.


2. Dovetail Angle

Some are 65°, even in this country.

OTOH, I'm not sure how much it matters (I have no idea of the tolerances).


3. Misc

3/8" = 9.5 mm

10 mm = 0.394"


4. UNIQUE Parts Source

Bob's Gun Shop "We Bought ALL Remaining Factory Parts!"


5. 'Fitting' The Dovetail

Always file the sight, never the dovetail (except, I suppose, as a 'last resort').

In addition, it should only be necessary to remove material from the BOTTOM of the sight (not the sides).

A normal Mill file can be used (I have used both 6" and 10" files).

It's also usually easiest to keep the file still and move the work across it, alternating directions with each pass.

When properly fitted, you should be able to press the sight into the dovetail approximately half way with your fingers/thumbs. If it still doesn't tap-in the rest of the way easily enough to suit your preferences, you can remove a little more material from the bottom of the sight.

In all cases, GO SLOWLY.


HTH :-)

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